Buying a used rifle is one of those things that can go brilliantly or that can cause you to end up in a lot of regret.
The difference usually comes down to what happens in the five or ten minutes before money changes hands. A good used rifle is a fantastic buy because it’s often significantly cheaper than new, already broken in, and is also sometimes better quality than anything in the current market.
A bad one is an expensive paperweight at best and a safety hazard at worst!
The challenge is that most sellers (regardless of whether they’re a mate offloading a spare, a dealer clearing stock, or a stranger from an online listing), aren’t going to volunteer the problems.
So the job falls to the buyer. AKA: you.
Here’s what to actually look for:
Start With the Obvious Stuff Before You Touch a Thing
Before you pick the rifle up, take a close-up look at it. Most first impressions will give you good insight into how much care was given to the firearm. If a rifle has been well taken care of it will show, and it will be obvious.
The bluing (or other finishes) should all look as though they were done by someone who had pride in their work. The stock should not have deep scratches or cracks indicating that the firearm has been abused. Overall, the appearance of the firearm should give you the impression that the person who previously owned it thought enough of the firearm to put some effort into caring for it! And that should be made very clear to you just by closely observing it.
Rust on a used firearm isn’t necessarily bad. Light surface rust on a well maintained rifle from years ago may be cleanable or removable, for instance. However, rust that is found anywhere within the action of the firearm, within the barrel of the firearm, or on the bolt face is a major indicator that the owner neglected the firearm for long periods of time. Additionally, rust that is located internally also typically indicates a large degree of neglect and, at the very least, should cause you to seriously wonder what else wasn’t taken care of.
Besides looking for rust, you should also examine your stock for stress cracks around the action screws and near the recoil lug. These are both areas that get worked extremely hard with each firing cycle, and the stress cracks present in these locations can and will negatively impact accuracy as well as weaken structural components of the stock.
Additionally, stress cracks that extend down either side of the grip (or along the top of the wrist area of the stock) strongly indicate that the rifle is in substantial need of repair.
Pick It Up and Work the Action
Once the rifle’s been visually inspected, pick it up and cycle the action. The very act of opening and closing the action will tell you a lot about the rifle. When you close the action, the bolt should move smoothly throughout its entire range of motion. It should not “catch”, grind, or require more than a normal amount of effort to close.
While some stiffness may be expected on rifles that have not been fired recently, excessive grittiness indicates a lack of maintenance, damage, or long-term storage of the rifle in an unclean state.
Next, check how well the bolt locks. The bolt should lock into place strongly, and you should not be able to pull it forward easily. If the bolt has too much movement or wobble in the locked position, you will most likely experience problems with headspace, or the distance between the bolt face and the chamber that prevents the round from moving forward (this is both a safety hazard and a costly repair problem).
When checking the bolt face, make sure to verify that the rifle is unloaded prior to opening. Check for erosion, cracks, etc., around the firing pin hole and the extractor area.
Look Down the Barrel and Be Honest About What You See
The bore is arguably the most important single thing to evaluate on a used rifle. Even with a rifle that has a scratched stock and/or a worn-out finish, a rifle may still perform well if its bore remains intact.
On the other hand, a rifle that appears new (on the outside) could potentially have a damaged bore!
You should ask the seller if they have a bore light, or simply carry a flashlight. Point the bolt away from you and hold it so that you see into the barrel. Then observe through the barrel towards your light source and evaluate from there whether you can clearly see sharp lines, which will indicate clearly defined rifling.
What you want to see here is well defined rifling: that is the spiral design that causes rotation on the bullet. The “lands” and “grooves” should appear clean and sharp. Worn rifling in comparison will appear dull and soft.
Additionally, worn rifling does not necessarily make the rifle inaccurate at close ranges. However, at long range, a poorly bored firearm will lose accuracy.
Pitting in the bore is the worst condition to find. Small holes that are created by rust or corrosion are permanent damage. Nothing will remove these permanently damaged areas, regardless of how many times the area is cleaned. Pitting located closer to the breech area is generally less damaging than pitting located throughout much of the bore. Keep in mind that any significant amount of pitting in the bore will negatively affect the overall performance of the rifle. It’s not worth it.
Take note here that lead and copper buildup are not pitting. Lead and copper buildup occur due to normal firing and sighting conditions and can easily be removed with proper solvents and brushes. Do not, however, mistake lead and copper buildup as actual damage to your rifle’s bore.
Check the Crown and the Muzzle
The crown (which is the very end of the muzzle) is where the bullet takes its last contact with the barrel, and any damage there directly affects accuracy.
Dings, chips, or uneven wear on the crown will cause a bullet to exit slightly off-axis, and even a small imperfection here can open up groups considerably.
Run a finger lightly around the crown and look at it closely in good light. It should be perfectly symmetrical and free from any damage. Minor crown damage can sometimes be recut by a competent gunsmith, but it’s worth knowing about before committing to a purchase.
Inspect the Trigger
Fire the rifle dry (with your permission) and confirm it is empty. Pay attention to how much you have to press on the trigger. The trigger should “break” smoothly with little to no “creep,” “grit,” or “mush.” A well-designed/installed trigger will “break” in a consistent manner.
However, if the trigger has become worn out or if it has had some unqualified person tinker with it, it may require you to push against a sensation similar to feeling as though you are digging your hand into sand, dirt, etc. Make sure that you ask the seller about any modifications made to the trigger.
Some individuals will modify their trigger pulls to make them lighter; however, unless this modification was done properly and correctly by a skilled gunsmith, a lightened trigger pull could be an unsafe condition. Therefore, ask the owner of the firearm if the trigger seems too light or there is no apparent “take up” when you pull the trigger.
Look at the Scope Mounts and Rings If Present
If the rifle comes equipped with an optic (scope), it’s important to thoroughly inspect the ring and the base mounts. Over tightening, improper lapping, and poor fitting of the ring and base will ultimately damage your scope over time and may also cause you to lose your zero.
Examining the ring mounts check for signs of movement, scratches on the finish where a mount has moved, dents in the receiver where the mounting screws were overly tightened, and whether or not there is excessive play in the rings.
Ask the Questions Most People Don’t Bother Asking
How many rounds has it had through it? What ammunition has been run through it? Has it ever been rebarrelled? Has anyone worked on the trigger, action, or stock? Has it been dropped, dunked, or stored in a vehicle for extended periods?
Most sellers will answer honestly if asked directly. And the answers tell you a lot, and not just about the rifle’s mechanical state but about how it was treated and by whom. A rifle that’s had five thousand rounds of factory ammo through it is a different proposition to one that’s had five hundred rounds of carefully selected handloads.
It’s also worth knowing a little context about gun laws and ownership history in your region before stepping into the private sale market. Understanding the regulatory environment in that regard (including the kinds of ownership and transfer records that are expected) is very critical.
For a broader perspective on how firearm legislation has shaped ownership culture across different countries, this overview of island gun laws including Australia, the UK, and New Zealand is a genuinely useful read.
Trust Your Gut But Verify Everything
Most experienced buyers are able to tell in the first minute whether a rifle is worthy of further evaluation.
But at the same time, experience does not replace due diligence. Even experienced shooters will miss important information about a firearm if they do not go through the fundamental steps of evaluating the firearm.
Take your time. Methodically work your way through each step. If you find yourself unable to explain what may be wrong with the rifle (no matter how small), walk away from the purchase.
Another rifle is always available.
Sam Jacobs is a writer, and chief historian, at Ammo. As a self-proclaimed outdoorsman, it’s his responsibility to use his knowledge and experience to educate others about ammunition, the outdoors, and conservation.
